FAQ

The following is a list of commonly asked questions

Q: Can I install my own manufactured home?
A: Yes but only if the person installing the home owns both the home and the property it is being installed on and the homeowners are going to occupy the home themselves and the home is not located within a manufactured home park.

Q: Are permits required to install a manufactured home?
A: Yes. Permit are required for any home installed in Ohio and additional permits may be required for homes installed on private property depending on the circumstances.

Q: How long is an installation permit good?
A: The installation permit is good for six months from the date of issue.

Q: Can I request an extension on my permit?
A: Yes. You can request a onetime extension for an additional six months.

Q: What are my options if my permit expires?
A: If your permit is under its first six months, you can request a onetime six-month extension. If the permit is at the end of its extension, you will have to pay a reissuance fee. Then a new permit will be issued.

Q: How much does a permit cost?
A: The permit fee varies by three zones. Please see the fees section for more details.

Q: What is your service area?
A: We cover the entire State of Ohio.

Q: How close does my electrical disconnect have to be to the home?
A: The electrical disconnect located on a pole, pedestal must be located within 30' of the home, or a secondary disconnect must be installed.

Q: How far from other structures or the lot line does the home need to be?
A: For homes installed on private property, you must be at least five feet from any structure or lot line. For homes installed in a manufactured home parks this may vary please refer to the Lot Size & Spacing Requirements document found on the resources page.

Q: How far from overhead power or cable lines does the home need to be?
A: The home must be installed at least 10' from any overhead power or cable lines and no lines including the service entrance line to the home may pass over the peak of the roof.

Installation Considerations

The following is a list of guidelines that will be inspected for

Grading

  • Site must be graded or otherwise prepared to ensure adequate drainage away from home. If home is near a sloped area where water run-off may occur, the site shall be provided with drains or swales or otherwise graded to drain water away from structure.
  • Vegetation must be removed from underneath the home. Poured concrete footers must be a minimum of 6 inches thick and 24" wide and smooth
  • 6 mil plastic must be placed underneath entire length and width of home with exception you provide ventilation for 1 sq ft for every 150 sq feet of living space

Blocking
  • Individual piers must be stacked within 2 feet of the ends of the home and every eight feet unless specified otherwise by manufactures manual or appropriately designed foundation plan considering soil conditions.
  • Blocking must run perpendicular to the I-beams.
  • Blocking on piers may be single stacked (hollow core facing upward) if pier is no more than 36" high.
  • Block piers 37" high to 67" high, must be double stacked with each layer of blocking alternating.
  • All corner block piers that are over three blocks high must be double stacked with each layer of blocking alternating. Perimeter blocking must be installed on each side of exterior door openings. Adjustable outriggers are acceptable
  • If a block perimeter wall is installed, a 2" layer of stone must be placed below or laid on top of the 6-mil plastic
  • Caps on top of piers can be:
  • 4-inch solid concrete or 2-inch solid hardwood or ΒΌ inch steel plate
  • If using treated lumber for caps, 6 mil plastic or roofing felt must be placed between the cap and the I-beams to prevent corrosion.
  • ALL caps must cover entire length and width of top of pier.
  • Shims measuring 4" x 6" X 1" may be used, if needed. You must use two shims going opposite directions to create a flat surface.
  • Filler material may be used above the caps when needed. A maximum of three inches material is permitted.
  • Wood or ABS material may be used as filler

Tie-Downs
  • Tie downs must be placed within 2 feet of the corners of the home and every eight feet unless an alternate design is submitted and approved or an alternate stabilization system is used.
  • Anchor head must be installed flush with the ground and must use stabilizer plates with each anchor.
  • Straps must be installed at a 30 - 45-degree angle.
  • Strap hook must hook to top inner side of beam, wrap strap around beam, bring strap to anchor from top of beam, then strap wraps around the anchor bolt at least 3-5 wraps with no tail
  • Alternate stabilization systems may be used
  • If using on single wide, you must also use tie downs on all 4 corners of the home within two feet from end of home.

Plumbing
  • PVC or ABS DWV pipe must be used. Do not mix!
  • You must maintain a 1/4" inch drop for every foot of pipe unless you are using a clean out. If using a clean out, you may maintain an 1/8" drop for every foot.
  • Plumbing must be strapped. Straps should be placed every four feet.
  • Water lines must have insulation & heat tape installed.
  • A shut off valve must be accessible within 3 feet of the point where the water supply enters the perimeter of the home or emerges from underground.

Electrical
  • Disconnect must be within 30 feet and within sight of home.
  • A 4 (four) wire system required for feeders.
  • 4/0 aluminum conductors required for 200-amp service.
  • Use antiox compound on all aluminum connections.
  • Two ground rods at service disconnect, spaced 6 feet apart, tied together with #4 copper.
  • Feeders must be in electrical conduit to at least 18" underground from disconnect to subpanel in home.
  • Once under home, conduit does not have to be buried but wire must still be in conduit until it reaches the inside panel.
  • Ground wire in subpanel must terminate on ground bar with bare copper grounds, NOT on neutral bar.
  • If installing a double wide home, make sure both halves are bonded together.
  • Close up extra knock out holes in disconnect.

Underpinning/Skirting
  • Underpinning/skirting is required on all homes
  • Skirting shall be of weather resistant material.
  • Access opening minimum of 18" x 24" and minimum 3 sq/ft in area shall be provided and shall be located so that any utility connections located under the home are accessible.
  • Ventilation is required under home.
  • Vented underpinning may be used as well as solid underpinning.
  • Solid underpinning/skirting requires at least 1 vent placed within 3 feet of the end of home with vents placed on long side of the home (not the ends) giving a total of 4 vents to be installed.

Step/Decks
  • All steps/decks must be free standing. They cannot be supported by the home.
  • If installed landings must be 3' x 3'.
  • Steps/ Landings must be within 8-1/4" of top of threshold.
  • Handrails are required if landings/decks are 30" above finished grade.
  • Handrails must be 36 inches in height.
  • Handrails are only required on one side of stairs.
  • Handrails require spindles or equivalent, which do not allow the passage of a sphere of at least 4".

Misc.
  • Dryer duct must extend to outside perimeter of home using metal duct. Plastic and thin foil duct is prohibited.
  • All condensation lines must extend to outside perimeter of home.
  • Duct work must be supported off ground using straps or other approved means every four feet. Duct work is not to lie directly on ground.
  • Underbelly must be intact. All rips, holes and tears must be repaired and sealed.
  • Air conditioning units require a service disconnect at the unit.
  • Gutters If installed must be extended at least 18" away from home.
  • Smoke detectors must be placed properly in home and in working order.
  • Homes built before Sept. 2002 requires at least 2 working smoke detectors in home.
  • Homes built after Sept. 2002 shall have interconnecting smoke detectors, with battery backup in each bedroom and at least one in the common area.